Just spent 4 days in Paris after a long absence. Stayed b/w bottom of Luxembourg Gardens and Montparnasse. Our budget hotel was in a great location - RER, Metro, buses, and walking. What struck us most was the hordes of tourists everywhere. We thought off-season numbers would be way down. We were unable to get into Sacre Coeur cathedral (my favorite) because of the massive crowds on a late Sunday afternoon. And the crowd was weirdly "diverse" tons of Muslims, women very covered up. Why would they want to visit a Catholic cathedral? Crowds were so thick we also couldn't get to Montmartres Place du Tertre to see the artists.
I suspect a big part of the reason that offseason still has tons of tourists is the impact of the Olympic Games. That is interesting about the number of apparent Muslims at Sacre-Coeur.
I haven't been to Paris lately, but at one point in my life was going four or five times a year. I concur with much of this article but one thing is significantly missing--the bainlieu. Researching a book I was working on, I was taken there by an American writer who lives in Paris in her car. She urged me NOT to speak English, so I spoke French (actually I spoke very little, just stared). What I saw was an ominous as anything I had seen in the Middle East and I have been to Jenin, Hebron, Ramallah, Cairo, Sudan, etc. The initial NTMJ scrawled everywhere. That's Nic Ta Mere Juif or Fuck Your Mother, Jew. It was a scary slum with satellite dishes, of course, aimed eastward. The real danger is when you get out of central Paris tourist land. Yes, it's still cool in the Marais. But try Marseilles and you'll get a very different feeling.
Hi Roger, and thanks for stopping by. I agree with much of your comment here. As briefly mentioned, I have traveled in Europe substantially from 2012 to 2022 for both work and vacation. I also did so from 1985 to 1995, which gives me an interesting compare and contrast. I was last in Marseilles in 2016 or so, but was in Lille, LeMans, Bourges, Versailles frequently throughout that time period mentioned. Marseilles, like Paris, is just fine in the core, like around the Vieux-Port. But get outside of there, even just to the train station, and there is a significant difference. Again, similar to Paris and Gare du Nord compared to Ile de la Cite.
Still, I will say that Germany is worse. And much of that is because it is nearly impossible for the Germans to fight back when the invaders start down the racism path. And frankly, the big American cities are in huge trouble as well.
Hope there was some help. How long are you in Paris? Make a reservation at Restaurant Robert et Louise if you want to experience a very old school French steakhouse where they still cook the steaks over an open wood fire. If you do, definitely order the escargot as well. Happy to help with more tips.
Visit the Cathedral St. Denis and walk a block in any direction to see the Paris of the banlieues. Regarding the food, stay away from the Champs Elysee. Also some Americans just don’t care for French food, even when it is good. Though you can often get excellent hamburgers there because of the ingredients- fresh bun, local beef, excellent cheese, fresh tomato and lettuce. Gourmet burgers are a thing in Europe these days.
I like St. Denis and that area. And you’re right about great hamburgers in europe generally. A huge change from when I was stationed in West Germany in the 1980’s and 90’s.
I was in Paris in September, passing through on the way from Strasbourg.
We had lunch somewhere between the Gard du Nord and the Gare de l'Est. The food was good for the price and the house red wine pleasant. In that respect yes Paris is still good.
I certainly noticed the wide variety of shades of skin on the passers by as we sat and ate. It didn't seem dangerous (but then it was midday) and the smell of pee that I recall from past trips was absent, but it seemed like, despite a clean up for the olympics, things were still kind of shabby.
Trying to get on the RER to go to Charles De Gaulle was an exercise in frustration with half the machines not working and, as I recalled from previous trips, the train goes past some pretty run-down and graffitied neighborhoods on the way.
It wasn't as crap as I had feared but I still think Paris would be improved by a neutron bomb
I don't think Julia would be appalled. I think she would sigh at what has become of the food on the big avenues, but then appreciate everything down the side streets and outside Paris.
Just spent 4 days in Paris after a long absence. Stayed b/w bottom of Luxembourg Gardens and Montparnasse. Our budget hotel was in a great location - RER, Metro, buses, and walking. What struck us most was the hordes of tourists everywhere. We thought off-season numbers would be way down. We were unable to get into Sacre Coeur cathedral (my favorite) because of the massive crowds on a late Sunday afternoon. And the crowd was weirdly "diverse" tons of Muslims, women very covered up. Why would they want to visit a Catholic cathedral? Crowds were so thick we also couldn't get to Montmartres Place du Tertre to see the artists.
I suspect a big part of the reason that offseason still has tons of tourists is the impact of the Olympic Games. That is interesting about the number of apparent Muslims at Sacre-Coeur.
I haven't been to Paris lately, but at one point in my life was going four or five times a year. I concur with much of this article but one thing is significantly missing--the bainlieu. Researching a book I was working on, I was taken there by an American writer who lives in Paris in her car. She urged me NOT to speak English, so I spoke French (actually I spoke very little, just stared). What I saw was an ominous as anything I had seen in the Middle East and I have been to Jenin, Hebron, Ramallah, Cairo, Sudan, etc. The initial NTMJ scrawled everywhere. That's Nic Ta Mere Juif or Fuck Your Mother, Jew. It was a scary slum with satellite dishes, of course, aimed eastward. The real danger is when you get out of central Paris tourist land. Yes, it's still cool in the Marais. But try Marseilles and you'll get a very different feeling.
Hi Roger, and thanks for stopping by. I agree with much of your comment here. As briefly mentioned, I have traveled in Europe substantially from 2012 to 2022 for both work and vacation. I also did so from 1985 to 1995, which gives me an interesting compare and contrast. I was last in Marseilles in 2016 or so, but was in Lille, LeMans, Bourges, Versailles frequently throughout that time period mentioned. Marseilles, like Paris, is just fine in the core, like around the Vieux-Port. But get outside of there, even just to the train station, and there is a significant difference. Again, similar to Paris and Gare du Nord compared to Ile de la Cite.
Still, I will say that Germany is worse. And much of that is because it is nearly impossible for the Germans to fight back when the invaders start down the racism path. And frankly, the big American cities are in huge trouble as well.
Headed there in November, then out and around the country. Staying in the St Germain. Thanks for this article.
Hope there was some help. How long are you in Paris? Make a reservation at Restaurant Robert et Louise if you want to experience a very old school French steakhouse where they still cook the steaks over an open wood fire. If you do, definitely order the escargot as well. Happy to help with more tips.
Also check out https://aparisperspective.substack.com/ ..... American living in Paris with some good insights and experiences.
Visit the Cathedral St. Denis and walk a block in any direction to see the Paris of the banlieues. Regarding the food, stay away from the Champs Elysee. Also some Americans just don’t care for French food, even when it is good. Though you can often get excellent hamburgers there because of the ingredients- fresh bun, local beef, excellent cheese, fresh tomato and lettuce. Gourmet burgers are a thing in Europe these days.
I like St. Denis and that area. And you’re right about great hamburgers in europe generally. A huge change from when I was stationed in West Germany in the 1980’s and 90’s.
You forgot to ask what new word the Russians will impart on the French. Bistro is getting old.
D’accord. Très bien.
I was in Paris in September, passing through on the way from Strasbourg.
We had lunch somewhere between the Gard du Nord and the Gare de l'Est. The food was good for the price and the house red wine pleasant. In that respect yes Paris is still good.
I certainly noticed the wide variety of shades of skin on the passers by as we sat and ate. It didn't seem dangerous (but then it was midday) and the smell of pee that I recall from past trips was absent, but it seemed like, despite a clean up for the olympics, things were still kind of shabby.
Trying to get on the RER to go to Charles De Gaulle was an exercise in frustration with half the machines not working and, as I recalled from previous trips, the train goes past some pretty run-down and graffitied neighborhoods on the way.
It wasn't as crap as I had feared but I still think Paris would be improved by a neutron bomb
This mirrors my experiences 2 1/2 years ago.
I don't think Julia would be appalled. I think she would sigh at what has become of the food on the big avenues, but then appreciate everything down the side streets and outside Paris.